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Installing Your DIY Security and Remote Start System
Instructional Videos
DIRECTED REMOTE START SYSTEMS
Directed Remote Start systems are intended for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only, and come with an array of safety features which must be installed for the safe operation of your vehicle. Failure to properly install these safety features may result in personal injury, property damage or both.

Installation of all Directed Do It Yourself systems involves identifying the proper wires in the vehicle, cutting them and securely connecting to them. If you are at all hesitant about your ability to install the system, please ask your Directed retailer about affordable, professional installation.

We make great products, but as the saying goes, the product is no better than the installation. We’re going to go over some basic installation procedures, and talk about the instructions and support that come with your Directed system.

DO’S AND DON’TS
DO use the included LED Circuit Tester for identifying constant 12 volts, ignition, accessory, starter, parking light and brake wire circuits only! It should never be used to test any computerized circuit in the vehicle. When in doubt about any wire use a digital multimeter instead. Testing any circuits with the Circuit Tester other than the ones previously mentioned may result in damage to expensive computer modules and/or inadvertent deployment of an air bag. Directed Electronics accepts no liability with regards to bodily damage or damage to the vehicle resulting from the improper use of the LED Circuit Tester. An LED Circuit Tester is not included with all systems.

DO make sure to take your time and be methodical.

DON’T go near yellow SRS airbag looms. Don’t touch them! Cutting or probing these wires may cause unintentional airbag deployment, electrical system damage or injury.

DO tape all connections. Sound connections are required for proper unit functioning.

DO run wires only through holes that have rubber grommets. Failure to comply may compromise wire insulation integrity.

DON’T ground to a factory bolt – refer to the manual for proper grounding.

DO run your wires away from all moving parts and heat sources.

DO read the whole manual before starting.

TOOLS
Everyone’s heard the expression “the right tool for the right job”, and the good news is that many of these tools are included with your Directed DIY system! These are:
  • An LED Tester, for identifying constant 12 volts, ignition, accessory, starter, parking light and brake wire circuits
  • A razor knife, for cutting, stripping and separating wires
  • Six 6 inch black wire ties
  • One 10 foot roll of electrical tape
Please note that these tools do not come with all systems but you should be able to easily find them around your household, borrow or buy at a local electronics or hardware store.

In addition, you may want to consider acquiring the following tools:
  • ¼” & 5/16” drill bits
  • Wire strippers
  • Metric socket or wrench set
  • Digital volt meter (easily found at your local Home Depot, Sears, or Radio Shack)
There are many ways to make connections in the vehicle, but we recommend securely connecting to wires by first stripping off the insulation, then separating the wires, inserting the connecting wire, and twisting securely. Finish your connection by applying some solder and securely wrapping the wire with high quality electrical tape.

PREPARING FOR INSTALL
Now, before beginning the installation, please take a few preliminary measures before touching any wires. First, find a location that provides adequate ventilation, keeping in mind that you’re going to be starting the engine at several points during the installation. If installing in a garage, open the garage door. Open the vehicle’s front windows all the way to prevent accidentally locking the keys in the vehicle. Next, open the hood. Your hood pin and tach wire will be connected out here. Remember, keep any wires away from any parts that move or get hot. If you smoke, do not smoke while working under the hood, gasoline and battery fumes are flammable. Next, install the warning label inside the engine compartment so it can be easily seen by anyone who may be working under the hood. Clean any grease or dirt away from the area before attaching the sticker.

COMPONENTS/FUNCTIONS
Brain or CPU Module
This is the electronic control module, which will be installed inside the vehicle, somewhere underneath the dash. All the wiring you will do will connect here.

Transmitter
This is the most visible and commonly used component which will be used to control your system using radio frequency signals sent to the receiver in the brain.

Wiring Harnesses
These wires will be connected all over the vehicle, and will meet at the brain.

Antenna
This part of the system will be mounted on your windshield and allows the remote to communicate with the CPU.

Hood pin
This switch must be connected to ensure safe operation of the remote starter. When properly installed this switch will prevent the remote starter from activating when the hood is open.

Manual override toggle switch
This switch is installed in series with the neutral safety wire and allows the end user to disable the remote starter and prevent accidental activation via the remote.

INSTALLING THE REMOTE CAR STARTER
First, you will need to remove the lower dash panel by removing either a few screws or bolts to get to the vehicles wiring under the dash. You will find many of your remote start wires coming directly out of the back of the ignition cylinder. These wires, when connected properly, will start your engine and allow the accessories such as the heater and air conditioner to operate. Please refer to your vehicle wiring diagram for specific wire information. While searching for these wires if you see any yellow jackets or sleeves, or wires marked in such a way as to alert you to there presence, you must completely avoid them. These are the air bag wires and must not be tampered with or unplugged. Ignoring this warning could lead to accidental deployment which could injure you or damage the air bag system.

The first wire we will connect is the ground wire. Begin by crimping the ring terminal onto the end of the black ground wire. Then you will need to attach the ground wire to the chassis of the vehicle (preferably the kick panel) by tightening the screw into a paint-free metal surface. Your ground connection is very important for reliable operation of your remote start system, therefore we recommend that you avoid grounding anything to the dash.

The next step is to run the required wires through the fire wall. The wires that will need to go through the fire wall are the hood pin wire, optional tach wire, or wiring for an optional siren. To go through the fire wall, find an accessible rubber grommet, one that you can see from under the hood AND from under the dash. Slit the grommet on one side and attempt to fish the wires through, being extremely careful as to not pierce any of the factory wires already going through the grommet. If a factory grommet is not available, you may need to drill a hole in the firewall to reach the engine compartment. If your vehicle also comes with an option for a manual transmission you can usually find a suitable point on the firewall where the clutch pedal would normally be. ALWAYS use a grommet when creating your own access in the firewall, otherwise you may risk unit failure or even damage to the vehicle. As you run the wires around the engine compartment, make sure you keep the wires away from hot surfaces and moving parts. If the 12volt wire listed on your printout makes note of a low current circuit (40 amps or less) you will also need to run your power wire directly to the battery. Remember to use your fuse holder in line with whatever power source you use. It is recommended that you insert your fuse holder as close to the power source as possible.

Next, it is time to make your connections to the ignition harness. Usually, your ignition wires will be found in a bundle coming out of the back of the ignition cylinder. The vehicle wiring diagram you download from the internet will help you find these wires. Always use your LED tester or digital volt meter to verify these wires before you connect to them. In order for us to identify the proper ignition wires we will need to turn the key to the start, run, and accessory positions.

With your LED tester or digital volt meter set to read D/C voltage we will first measure the ignition 1 wire of the vehicle. This wire is usually responsible for providing both fuel and spark to the engine. This wire will measure 12 volts before, during, and after cranking the starter. Go ahead and connect the ignition 1 wire off the remote starter to the ignition 1 wire in the car. If your vehicle specific wiring diagram refers to an ignition 2 wire, follow the same test procedure for that wire and connect the ignition 2 output from the remote starter to it.

The next wire we are going to locate is the Accessory wire. On most vehicles this wire will operate circuits such as the radio, windshield wipers, and power windows. More importantly, this wire(s) is used to power up the air conditioning or climate control system. Some vehicles have more than one accessory circuit. If your vehicle falls under this category (ie: newer Fords & GM’s) you will need to purchase additional relays. Please refer to vehicle wiring diagram for specific instructions. An accessory wire tests differently than an ignition wire, and it is VERY important that you power each of these circuits correctly. The correct accessory wire will show 12 volts before and after cranking, BUT will go to zero volts DURING cranking. It is important that these wires be powered as ACCESSORY wires, and not as IGNITION wires.

The last wire we will connect is the starter wire. This wire is responsible for cranking the starter. You will need to find a wire that registers 12 volts in the start position only. Once the key is released from the start position the voltage will fall back to zero volts. This is your starter wire. Connect the starter wire output from the remote starter unit to this wire. Please note that some cars have two starter wires (ie: Nissans and some newer Chryslers). In this case you will need two relays to properly interface both starter wires. Wiring diagrams are available on the website in order to assist with the wiring of the relays.

Earlier, we ran the hood pin and tach wires into the engine compartment. The hood pin switch is a very important safety feature. It will prevent the remote starter from operating if the hood of the vehicle is open. This is a critical component that must be installed in order for the remote starter to function properly and safely. Find a location to mount the hood-pin switch that won’t interfere with any wires or parts in the engine compartment. The hood pin needs to depress ALL THE WAY when the hood is closed to ensure proper operation. You’ll need to drill a 5/16” hole for the pin switch, securing the supplied star washer and nut to the bottom side. Clear away any paint and/or dirt form the surface. Then insert the pin switch into the hole and secure. Next, crimp the spade connector to the hood-pin wire off the remote starter and plug the spade connector into the bottom of the hood-pin switch.

Finally, we will need to connect the brake wire. This wire is not optional. IT deactivates the remote starter after you insert your key and also shuts down remote start if someone tries to drive off in your car during remote start. Using your digital volt meter or LED tester, probe the brake light wire referenced on your printout. This wire should show 12 volts whenever the brake pedal is pressed. Connect this wire to the brake wire input of the remote starter.

REMOTE START/DATA INTERFACE:
Most new vehicles come with factory immobilizers, which prevent the vehicle from starting without the owner’s special key. Since there is no key present during remote start, these immobilizers need to be specially interfaced with a separate module. Please refer to your vehicle specific wiring diagram or your vehicle owners manual to determine whether or not your vehicle uses an immobilizer. For your convenience, Directed Electronics manufactures a variety of remote start interface modules which interface with the factory immobilizer only during remote start, leaving it fully functional at all other times. These bypass modules are usually available at the same location you purchased your remote starter from. You can view all applicable modules for your car by visiting www.xpresskit.com.

COMPONENT MOUNTING
The BRAIN MODULE or CPU is typically mounted under the drivers' side of the dash. Use zip ties to attach the module. A large wire harness is a good place to start. You may also find small cavities where the brain may fit and can attach the module there. Be careful not to mount the brain on or next to any moving parts such as a steering column. Do not screw the module directly to metal! This will help insure maximum range.

DOOR LOCKS
Many Directed Do It Yourself Keyless Entry systems feature built-in Relays that will interface with the power door lock systems on most vehicles. On select DIY products you may have to use external relays, as in the case of reverse polarity door lock systems. Please refer to your manual to determine if your module requires external relays for your specific locking system. If you find that you need to purchase external relays for this, or for any other part of the install, you will need to locate a standard 12 volt, 30 amp relay with 5 terminals. These can be found at most automotive parts stores or in our online store at Directedstore.com.

Although there are literally thousands of different model year vehicles on the road at any one time, there are eight basic types of door lock systems. The 4 most common door lock systems are positive trigger (common on GM vehicles), negative trigger (common on Fords and Asian vehicles), reverse polarity (common on older GM and Chrysler vehicles), and multiplex (common on late model Chrysler vehicles). Please refer to your vehicle specific wiring diagram to determine which door locking system your vehicle uses.

SECURITY CONNECTION
Directed remote start systems with the optional security capability require interfacing with the door trigger circuit in your car. You can find the location and color of this wire on your vehicle-specific wiring diagram available on our website. This wire changes state when any of the vehicle’s doors are open, causing the security system to sound an alert via the horn or the optional siren mounted in the engine compartment.

PARKING LIGHT TESTING
There are 3 different types of parking light circuits, Positive, Negative and Multiplex. To test for a negative parking light circuit you will need to connect the red lead of your LED Circuit Tester or digital volt meter to a constant 12 volt source. Probe the suspected negative wire with your black lead. When the parking lights are turned on the green LED in your circuit tester should light. When the parking lights are turned off the green LED should turn off. When testing for a positive circuit, you will need to connect the black lead of your LED Circuit Tester or digital volt meter to good chassis ground. Probe the suspected positive parking light wire with your red lead. When the parking lights are turned on the red LED in your circuit tester should light. When the parking lights are turned off the red LED should turn off. Keep in mind, there are more complex parking light circuits such as multiplex lighting systems found on newer model Chrysler vehicles. Check your vehicle specific wiring information to determine which setup you have.

AUXILIARY OUTPUT
Some Directed systems come with an auxiliary output, which is an output typically used to interface with a power trunk release. Besides trunk releases, many minivans have electronic activated door sliders which can be integrated with a simple negative trigger. These outputs are generally negative at the brain and may require a relay to function properly depending on the polarity of the trunk release or power slider circuit in your vehicle.

ENGINE MONITORING
There are three primary types of engine monitoring with regard to remote start: Voltage Sense, Virtual Tach, and Tach mode. Tach is a backup monitoring method generally used when the voltage method proves to be insufficient enough to successfully remote start the vehicle. This is an input wire, and needs to see a strong source of A/C current to properly monitor the RPM of the engine. Directed recommends using a fuel injector wire or ignition coil to make this connection. You may also use the wire listed on your vehicle specific wiring diagram. Be sure to properly test this wire and confirm that it shows between .5v to 6v A/C current, fluctuating with the RPM.

TESTING THE FEATURES
Now that you’ve followed all the detailed instructions in your install guide and installed your new Directed system, let’s TEST some typical features:
  1. Keyless Entry System

    Pressing the lock button with keyless entry functionality locks your doors.

    Pressing the unlock button will unlock your doors.

    You will also notice Light Flash Confirmation: one flash for lock – two flashes for unlock.

  2. Remote Start System

    For remote start, press the start button.

    Now let’s test some of the safety shutdowns.
Brake Shutdown: With the vehicle in Park, activate the remote start system. Once the engine is running, press the brake pedal. The engine should shut down immediately. If the engine continues to run, check the brake circuit connection.

Hood Pin Shutdown: With the vehicle in Park, open the hood. Activate the remote start system. The vehicle should not start. If the starter engages, check your hood pin and connections.

If the starter does not engage, your safety check is complete!

For Valet Takeover, press the start button when the vehicle is running, then remove the key. When returning to the vehicle, insert the key, turn to ON and press the brake to exit remote start mode.

HELPFUL INSTALLATION LINKS
The below links are provided for professional mobile electronics installers and are for convenience only. Directed Electronics does not assume any responsibility or liability for any information, content, communications or materials available on such third-party sites.
  1. http://www.mecp.com/home.asp
  2. http://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/carsecurity.asp
* Please remember that any technical support information, whether oral or written is being provided free of charge on an “as is” basis, without any representation or warranty. Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility or liability resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.